Wake up at 6 AM, the logistic is not on the top, we have nothing for breakfast, only two apples and two bananas in the car.We leave at 8:30 PM to Algeciras port, we arrive at 9 PM, we book the tickets and we leave in the ferry at 9:45 PM, excellent organizationWe arrive to Ceuta, we fill in the tank and we move towards the border. We change money before the customs, we didn’t make a good deal we didn’t know the right rate but anyway we are on the road.At the customs a guy hassle us and want to help us for the formalities, we explain him we are able to do it by our-self. In front of the control office a guy say to me “hello!, I know you, do you remember in Tunisia with JSO organization”. It is true I did a trip in south Tunisia with them, it was in 2002. They are in Morocco with a travel agency, the world is small
All the paperworks are done quickly, without to pay anything, I put the GPS in place and GO .
We stop to Chefchaouen, where we would like to buy some things to eat, but it is Ramadan and all the stores are closed, we turn around in the city and finaly find a cake shop, we buy two apples tarts and French “viennoiserie” It’ll be ok.
On the exit of the town we arrive to the market, we complete our shopping with cans of sardines with olive oil, well known French cheese named “ vache qui rit “ ( laughing cow ) some bread everything for around 10 Dirham ( 1 € ). What feast. Picnic near from Chefchaouen with a beautiful landscape. I say to my friend ‘’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus, hein !!! ‘’. A personal expression, that means we are lucky.
At the village of Souk El Had, we take a road on the left towards Mokrisset where we expect to find the first track.The track begins soon, we catch up a band of 8 Italians bikers, we pass them quickly to avoid the dust they let behind, we will meet them later in special circumstances. In fact the track is an old road which has been covered with ground and mud. This track is easy to ride and perfect for a beginning, even the loaded bikes are easy to drive, the landscape on the RifMountains are wonderful.
The trip starts very well.
After Zoumi, we take a road towards FES. Before arriving to Fes, we stop for setting up the night. I found an address and a phone number recommended on an internet Forum, I call, ask for the price, 2000 Dirhams (around 200€), oups it’s too expensive for our budget. On the “ routard guide” we find a cheap hotel. We turn in Fes, a policeman give us a wrong direction (even if they don’t know, they give you an answer) and finally we take a guide with a moped to find the hotel. 200 Dh the bedroom for two, it’s not a luxury, but we don’t care, it’s clean with hot water.
We leave the bikes in a watched parking for moped.For the dinner we find and address in the « routard guide », we take the bikes and turn around and around a long time in Fes, before finally finding the restaurant……..closed. Return to the hotel, I’ve got an other phone number, found on the web, restaurant “La Menara”, I call, the owner advises us to take a small taxi to a cinema where he will await us. He is present when we arrive. We follow him in the Medina and after three or four turns we are lost, there is nothing to do but follow him in this labyrinth. After walking a while, he stops in front of a large wood door, we enter in a wonderful traditional family home, with mosaic everywhere and plaster decoration. Hassan welcomes us friendly, he explains us a lot of things about Fes and Morocco. The meal prepared by his mother is excellent, an address to recommend.For going back to the hotel, Hassan asks to a little boy to guide us through the medina.
Walking within the medina during the night when the tourists are away is a funny thing to do.
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Restaurant La Ménara