Two 400XR in Morocco

ACCUEIL

2008-11-13T02:55:00.000-08:00

You will find in this blog the diaries of two trips in Morocco

DIARY MOROCCO 2006

DIARY MOROCCO 2008

Chris Scott route guide

Diary Morocco 2008

2008-11-13T02:51:00.000-08:00

Diary in progress. Meanwhile, three pictures to summarize the trip

The TRIP

2006-12-22T10:27:00.000-08:00

‘’Nous partîmes 6 et par un prompt renfort, nous nous vîmes ………….. 2 en arrivant au port d’Algeciras’’.

At the beginning of the project we must be three bikes with a four wheels drive car as assistance but at the end we were two. All the pictures here, the GPS track here.

The travellers : Patrick et Eric, the bikes : 400XR standard 8 an 10 years old ( the bikes ) fitted with big tank ( around 20L) in order to be self-sufficient for around 350 km, a pair of saddlebag, few closes, tools and some spares ( some tyre tubes, it will be important), a toothbrush a sleeping bag and go !!!.

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The trip in 4mn

(Clic in the frame to see the video)

Patrick --------------Eric

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21-10 Pujaudran Algeciras 1500 Km

2006-12-21T10:26:00.000-08:00

Wake up at 2 AM, quick breakfast, loading the bikes on the trailer, and we leave at 3 AM for 1500km and 15 hours through Spain.

Not many things to say, we arrive at 6 PM to Algeciras, camp site La Casita. We negotiate the price to leave the car and the trailer during our Moroccan trip. In fact we don’t negotiate a lot, 22€ for this night and around 7€ per day for the car and the trailer in a closed park.

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22-10 Algeciras Fes 260Km First tracks

2006-12-20T10:25:00.000-08:00

Wake up at 6 AM, the logistic is not on the top, we have nothing for breakfast, only two apples and two bananas in the car.We leave at 8:30 PM to Algeciras port, we arrive at 9 PM, we book the tickets and we leave in the ferry at 9:45 PM, excellent organizationWe arrive to Ceuta, we fill in the tank and we move towards the border. We change money before the customs, we didn’t make a good deal we didn’t know the right rate but anyway we are on the road.At the customs a guy hassle us and want to help us for the formalities, we explain him we are able to do it by our-self. In front of the control office a guy say to me “hello!, I know you, do you remember in Tunisia with JSO organization”. It is true I did a trip in south Tunisia with them, it was in 2002. They are in Morocco with a travel agency, the world is small

All the paperworks are done quickly, without to pay anything, I put the GPS in place and GO .

We stop to Chefchaouen, where we would like to buy some things to eat, but it is Ramadan and all the stores are closed, we turn around in the city and finaly find a cake shop, we buy two apples tarts and French “viennoiserie” It’ll be ok.

On the exit of the town we arrive to the market, we complete our shopping with cans of sardines with olive oil, well known French cheese named “ vache qui rit “ ( laughing cow ) some bread everything for around 10 Dirham ( 1 € ). What feast. Picnic near from Chefchaouen with a beautiful landscape. I say to my friend ‘’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus, hein !!! ‘’. A personal expression, that means we are lucky.

At the village of Souk El Had, we take a road on the left towards Mokrisset where we expect to find the first track.The track begins soon, we catch up a band of 8 Italians bikers, we pass them quickly to avoid the dust they let behind, we will meet them later in special circumstances. In fact the track is an old road which has been covered with ground and mud. This track is easy to ride and perfect for a beginning, even the loaded bikes are easy to drive, the landscape on the RifMountains are wonderful.

The trip starts very well.

After Zoumi, we take a road towards FES. Before arriving to Fes, we stop for setting up the night. I found an address and a phone number recommended on an internet Forum, I call, ask for the price, 2000 Dirhams (around 200€), oups it’s too expensive for our budget. On the “ routard guide” we find a cheap hotel. We turn in Fes, a policeman give us a wrong direction (even if they don’t know, they give you an answer) and finally we take a guide with a moped to find the hotel. 200 Dh the bedroom for two, it’s not a luxury, but we don’t care, it’s clean with hot water.

We leave the bikes in a watched parking for moped.For the dinner we find and address in the « routard guide », we take the bikes and turn around and around a long time in Fes, before finally finding the restaurant……..closed. Return to the hotel, I’ve got an other phone number, found on the web, restaurant “La Menara”, I call, the owner advises us to take a small taxi to a cinema where he will await us. He is present when we arrive. We follow him in the Medina and after three or four turns we are lost, there is nothing to do but follow him in this labyrinth. After walking a while, he stops in front of a large wood door, we enter in a wonderful traditional family home, with mosaic everywhere and plaster decoration. Hassan welcomes us friendly, he explains us a lot of things about Fes and Morocco. The meal prepared by his mother is excellent, an address to recommend.For going back to the hotel, Hassan asks to a little boy to guide us through the medina.

Walking within the medina during the night when the tourists are away is a funny thing to do.
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Restaurant La Ménara

23-10 Fes Midelt 281Km Barbed wire

2006-12-19T10:24:00.000-08:00

Wake up at 6 am, in fact we are awake since 4 :15 am, because of the call of the Muesin for the prayer. May be because the Ramadan the level of the “sound system” is very high, and we hear two calls, first at 4:15 am and the second at 5 am. And it’s during a long time.
Regarding the breakfast we don’t have to think about it, because of Ramadan
The caretaker is angry because 7am is too early and the day doesn’t begin well, so we can go.

Anyway, we load the bikes and we start, it is 7:30 pm and we have nothing to eat and to drink, we will find something to buy on the road. But all the stores are closed.

On the hill towards Imouzer kandar before arriving to Ifrane around 1800m high, the bike are running very bad, it seems that the mixture is wrong, specially Patrick’s bike. Following my advices, he changes the carburetor setup, in order to put back the baffle on the exhaust pipe, to have a quieter bike. Obviously it is not a success.

Before Ifrane, first trails, we take the track T1 describe in the Gandini guide book, superb tracks stony by place, super. Except that at one moment right in the middle of the track, a barbed wire is tended, emergency braking, I carry the wire, rattling noise. Once stopped, I note the damage, ouf nothing important , the engine protect, the exhaust pipe and a wing of the cylinder are well striped but it is all, not puncture, all is well. I have had a big fear nevertheless, especially because here the barbed wires seems very strong.
‘’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus, hein !!! ‘’

We saw two ski slopes just before Ifrane. With only one ski lift. It’s amazing for this country

Arriving to Ifrane , the « Switzerland of Morocco » in front of the royal palace an army of gardeners is working on the parks. It seems like we have changed of country. We stop at an hotel to buy some water, 15Dh the bottle oups “ this is a three stars hotel mister “.We fill in the tanks and we go down town, the stores are open, purchases for the picnic, sardines with tomatoes sauce ( to change a little bit ), “laughing cow”, toasts ( no bread until 1PM Inch Allah). Now we can go, we take a track on the left after the gas station, we pass to the Gouraud Cedar ( a tree Known I don’t know why ), we arrive on the sealed road Azrou Midel and after few kilometer we take a track on the left, towards the south, Gas...

Gouraud Cedar

Patrick’s bike is running more and more badly because of the altitude, now the high is more than 2000m. We stop for the picnic and organize a mechanical workshop in order to remove the exhaust pipe baffle which chokes the engine.

But it is rebellious and does not want to leave, using a cable, we attach the baffle to a tree, start the engine , first gear, acceleration and nothing happens, the wheel digs the ground but it is all.
At least, step by step we manage to leave it.
Testing, it’s Ok, it's running better.
Regarding my own bike the head of the screw is out of order and I need a drilling machine. So I remove the Sand-stop which I had put at the entry of the air filter, that is a little better but it is not yet fine.

Baffle doesn't move

We meet a French couple with a Toyota very well equipped, we discuss about our respective plans.
We set out again, in the Cedar forests, excellent sandy track, further we will see the monkeys but too far for a pictures. In a small village, as we doesn’t want to give pen or candy the children want to send to us on a wrong track, thank you the GPS.

Before Bakrit, during 2 or 3 km the track are covered with heaps of large gravels put here in order to remake the track, on the first part we can go on the right or on the left side but then the track is like a cornice and it is necessary to cross the woops formed by the gravel heaps, no problem with a bike, but with a 4x4 that must be less funny. Return on the sealed road, a straight line like there are a lot in Morocco, arrival on Midelt. Stop in a garage to see whether they can put in blow of drilling machine at my screw, they do not have a drill and propose to weld a piece of iron onto the screw to remove it, no thank you we will see later.
We arrive around 5 PM, hotel Atlas, 170Dh, for the night, meal for two, garage for the bikes and hot shower.

We meet a guy from Finistère, he is traveling with an old BJ45 Toyota, he offers us two beers, a funny guy.

During the diner we discuss with a couple from Quebec, After we walk through the town, discuss with Moroccans, purchases for tomorrow’s picnic, there is a lot of peoples in the streets during the night because of Ramadan. A good evening

Now, to the bed, tomorrow we have a huge stage.

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24-10 Midelt Tinerhir 260Km Circus of Jaffar

2006-12-18T10:24:00.000-08:00

As usual, wake up at 6 Am, once again the Muesin prepares us at 5. chocolatine and tangerine, it is frugal.

Departure at 7: 40, we turn around in Midelt before finding the track, of Jaffar circus, that we had made 8 years ago.

Arrived in overhang of the circus of Jaffar we stop for pictures memories, 8 years ago we get back here and there we will continue the track known as “shivers track” for the 4x4 drivers, with a bike it is not a problem, but by place the track's inclinations are important. Good feeling with a 4X4. To get out of the circus we take a wrong trail in a canyon, continuing on the right track now it is wonderful and the landscapes are very nice

Circus of Jaffar

shivers track

Near to the village Tizi’n zou, we stop in front of a large hole cutting the track (2m broad and as much of depth, ) a local guy explains us that not far the track is definitively cut and we have to return and take an other track on the north, of course he asks something for the information, we hesitate a little but the direction is good compared to the GPS and the ditch is passable with a bike. We decide to continue, there will be two or three crossings in the same type, a goat trail before finding the good track.

The first ford (It won’t be the last)

Sealed road until Agoudim, in the canyon we see the damage caused by the spring risings, it is really impressive, water carried whole parts of walls. The track begins again after Agoudim. Stop for picnic close to Tamalout in a oued ( river ) bordered of cedars.

The track continues, crossing a pass with 2650m high. Before Imilchil, we turn the throttle in the rise.

Return on a tar road, we avoid Imilchill and go directly towards Thodra gorges. We pass once again at 2670m high, we go down in the gorges, it’s a pity to have tar the track and also to have build a hotel at the entry of the gorges. We pass two 4x4, they are heavy loaded.

We arrive at Tinerhir at around 4PM, after almost 7 hours riding. We look for an hotel in the guide and finally we select a guesthouse named ‘’retour au calme’’ this means « return quiet », our guest Mohamed is very friendly and welcoming , the house is really typical, close to the palm plantation and clean, we eat there very well and the breakfast (the first in Morocco) is extra. An address to be recommended. (email :hote.calme@mageos.com) One of the best stopping place we have had.

Vue from the bedroom in the morning

It is the end of the Ramadan, it’s a feast day, people are in the street, very well wear to visit the family and the neighbors. We drink a Coke downtown, discussion with a guy who explains us the difficulty in following the Ramadan, and who is quite happy that finishes. As usual now, we purchase for picnic of the following day, this time we buy mackerels it is a feast day. A young guy guide us to the shop and to a bar where we can buy some bread, only to help us and not to sell us or to ask us somethings as it is often the case.We eat an excellent Tajine, the bikes are in the watched parking of the hospital, close to the house. I am finally able to connect the GPS and pocket PC and to download the tracks of the previous stages, at last, the memory of the GPS was full.

‘’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus, hein !!! ‘’

Tomorrow huge stage.

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25-10 Tinerhir Zagora 310Km Italians lost

2006-12-17T10:23:00.000-08:00

As usual, 4h30 Am Muesin, 6h00 get up, excellent breakfast . We go to the hospital to take the bikes, we don’t see the guard and nobody else, the bikes were well watched, but Morocco is a country very safe and that does not fear nowhere.

We load the bikes and leave at 8 Am. 25 Km on a road before tacking the track to Alnif. This track is in preparation for a future tarring, what Gandini calls a “Inch Allah road”, the old track which curves around the news is more interesting.

Passage of a small pass and we arrived to Alnif without problem, refueling the bikes and we set out again for Zagora.

After Alnif we drive a dozen of km towards East then on the right hand, direction South, we cross some villages and then in Tabourikt at the exit of the village, I take a wrong track. The GPS indicates direction SW and I’m going towards South straight to the Djebel (mountain), we try to find the good track while going off road but there are a lot of big stones and that becomes like trial. We go back, find an other track which seems to be good, but once again it brings us towards the Djebel, once again we try off road and finally we find the good track.

We are riding now in a stony plain, I stop to a well, the water is only at three meters . Patrick goes a head, but he misses a change of direction, it does not have a GPS, and just at this moment he loses a part of his headlight , I wait him at the crossing tracks. When he realizes, he makes half turn, we collect the plate and we set out again.

When we leave this valley, we approach a great plain which seems to be a shott ( dry lake ), the wind rises and blows rather extremely, and becomes into a sandstorm. We move right towards the cloud of sand which masks the horizon, a small anguish goes up, at the same time we ride on a dried ground and completely cracked (like chips) there is no more track. The dry ground plates, 20 or 30 cm of large and 3 or 4 cm of thickness, crack under the wheels, the more we advance and the less we see there, the visibility is less than ten meter.
We stop and decide to remain close together and avoid to lose sight of the other. We follow the direction given by the GPS, we hear the noise made by the dry ground under our wheels, It doesn’t take a lot of time, but what a feeling. Finally we get out of the cloud of sand, the wind is blowing quite strong.

Sand storm

Ground chips

Then we arrive to a village in a sandy area, we go around by the east side before to head west towards Zagora. Some kilometers further we see an auberge in the middle of nowhere. We stop for the lunch. Tajine Kefta, fresh water, it’s great regarding where we are. The young guy who serves, talks to us about the many rallies which pass here.

Auberge Marabout

On the track again, in fact there is not really one track but many parallel tracks. I go a head and decide to step on the gas, after a moment, having a look behind, I don’t see Patrick, I turn and go back, then I see 4x4, I head for them and ask if they have seen a bike, they explain to me that he is stopped not so far. Gas.

I see Patrick and in the same time a band composed by 8 bikes are going up to me, the Italians we saw the first day, they give me a wave. Patrick has already removed the front wheel because of a puncture. Mechanical workshop in this windy area is not very easy and the sand penetrate everywhere, there is a lot of sand inside the tyre, on the axle. There are many thorn planted in the tyre. Patrick has waited the last minute to prepare his bike, and as he couldn’t get tyres “Michelin desert”, so he put normal tyre type T63, “ it will be ok, you will see “ he said. We change the tube and put back the wheel. Now, if we want avoid riding by night we need to change pace, Gas.

Suddenly 4 bikes stopped in front of us, the Italians. They ask us if we have a GPS, I return the question, No they haven’t, a compass ?, No they haven’t, a map ? No they haven’t.

In fact they are lost. Because of the sandstorm the group has been divided in two and they lost sight of the others. Good. They ask if we can guide them to Zagora, If they pay a beer it’s okay. “Andiamo”, Welcome on board.

Italians.

There are a BMW 1200 GS (without plastics wears ) the guy is a very good driver ( he has made 5 Dakar and three time finisher), a Greek with an Africa twin who speaks a little French, one guy with an old Honda 500 XLR and at last a guy with a BMW 1150GS who is not a very good driver. He seems to be afraid and anguished. Our bikes are smaller and loaded but they have some difficulties to follow us, we have to stop after 2 or 3 km waiting for them, with this speed we are not yet arrived. We go through Oum jrane, once again at the exit of the town, I take a wrong track, as often, thanks to the GPS, I go straight off track in order to find the right direction, we cross a small stony field following a sandy area with very small dunes, this way is not very complicated but the guy with the 1150 is not able to follow, the Dakarist turn and go back to help him to cross over. We continue, finding the right track. We have to stop each 5 mn. We stop for drinking some water, the guy with the 1150 arrives, I give him my bottle of water ( they haven’t water also ) he throw the cap on the ground and after the bottle, “hola I don’t agree man “.

The Dakarist is anxious because the gas, hours are going on, everything’s going well

We start again, the front wheel of Patrick’s bike is becoming flat once again, but slowly he decides to continue like this. I would like to take the track which pass south of the Djebel Adafane before Zagora, but showing behind every time, I didn’t take care to the GPS and we took the North track more comon, anyway it will bring us to Zagora. Once again we have to wait for the Italians. I stop, Patrick decides to continue slowly because of the puncture.

I’m waiting for the Italians on the side of the track when two little girls, around 4 or 5 years old, come towards me. I can see far away a nomad camp. They are watching me without saying a word. In my backpack I have a part of the today picnic we didn’t touch, I give them bread water and chocolate. Regarding the clock, it’s possible that we stay this night on the track, anyway.

The Italians end up arriving, they pass in front of me without stopping, Patrick is coming back and, in the same time, the Greek arrives with two new Italians guys of the group, there are a lot of people suddenly, their group is reconstituted.

They succeeded to contact with the other group, thanks a cellular phone. So we can go now, Arrivederci raggazzi.

We let the Italians waiting the rest of the group. Before leaving, we blow up the wheel with a special cartridge for mountain bikes, It should be ok. But now is getting dark, we drive side by side, because the headlight’s bike are not on the top and we don’t see a lot, 5 or 6m no more.

I must to drive only with dipped headlight otherwise the GPS is shutting down. One eye on the GPS the other on the track or what I suppose to be in the dark. The GPS is set on the map mode, and thanks to the cartography I get on internet I can see where we are. Without this tool it is almost impossible to follow a track in the dark. We didn’t drive a lot of kilometers, but it seemed quite long.

Finally we arrive to Zagora, escorted with a lot of young beaters riding mopeds who propose hotel, garage, restaurants and so on.

Zagora has changed a lot during the last eight years. We stop in front of the new palace of the governor under a lamp. In the guide we select a guesthouse named Dar Raha at Amezrou close to Zagora.
(http://darraha.free.fr)/, good choice.

We are escorted by Said, mechanic in a garage, in the competition department please !!!

We park the bikes in the lobby of the guest house, there is not other customers like us. Fresh beer, hot shower, kefta with red wine from Meknes, the house is splendid and the hosts are friendly.

I sleep on the flat roof under the stars.

‘’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus, hein !!! ‘’.

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The lobby of the guest house

26-10 Zagora Zagora 5Km Clutch broken

2006-12-16T10:22:00.000-08:00

I have planed to have a day off in Zagora, but as we’re feeling good we decide to do the first part of the following stage, this means going to Mhamid, a hundred km and to go to the dunes named the Jew’s dunes, in order to test how are the loaded bikes in the sand before crossing over the erg of Chegaga.

Zagora in the morning

Palm grove

At first, mechanical workshop in the lobby, to fix the puncture, Patrick removes the tyre and I paste the repair patch on the tube, team working. There still are thorns inside the tyre, Patrick try to extract the most he can. “ This tyre will be ok, you will see “ he said.

We go downtown to the Said’s garage to extract the baffle in the exhaust pipe with a drilling machine, Patrick buys a new tube. We change money in a bank, and we fill in the tanks in a station close to the bank, when I take my wallet I realize I lost my passport, great moment of loneliness aïe …

I run to the bank, closed, but the guy inside see me and go out to give me the passport , ouf.

Okay, now we can go. We find the track quickly, but less than 2 km and Patrick stops, “ I have a problem” he says, “ the clutch doesn’t work anymore, it looks like the cable has been broken but it’s not “Aïe the problem is inside the engine, he removes the clutch cover, all seems normal, but in fact a little part of an axle is broken, it is wedged between the fork and the casing, it is a less evil, that is better there that at the bottom of the engine.

Analizing the damage

It starts badly, we can drive without clutch but we have more than 1500 km to do.
Return to the departure, it should be a day off.
Patrick proposes to call his insurance, I propose to return to the garage, maybe they will have a solution, I read that in Africa they was the kings of the resourcefulness.
We explain the matter to Said, he looks for a spare in her parts stock and then goes away with the broken part.
Patrick calls the assistance of his insurance and surprise they say to him, “ sorry but you don’t have Assistance”, oups, hopefully it is not a broken leg, otherwise….
We are waiting Said for a long time, a mechanic offers us the mint tea. The mechanic calls Said and he informs us that they are welding the pieces of the axle and they are also turning a copy of the part.
We are surprised, Inch’allah, nothing to do but waiting. We picnic in the garage, we visit the workshops of the mechanics in the neighbourhoods. Spirits is raising.
Said come back, shows us the part rewelded, it seems not so bad, and the copy. We try it but it doesn’t work, return at the turner.While I return at the guesthouse, I meet Antoine the boss, he is laughing seeing me, we are back for second round, it wasn’t so bad.

The axle rewelded

Return to the garage, once again we try to put the part copied, but It doesn’t work. This time I pick up Said with my bike, we go together at the turner.
This time it works, at least engine stopped. We put back the casing. Patrick starts the engine, first gear ok, he moves on, second gear and……… nothing the clutch get blocked Aïe. Removing the clutch cover, the copied axle is blocked and it is impossible to remove it. But since this part has been turning with the clutch ( normally it doesn’t ) and it has been machined by the fork and now there are a lot of small pieces of metal in the engine oil. In fact the axle has not been well done .

The Turner workshop

We fight during an half hour with two screwdrivers and a hammer ( chirurgical kind of mechanical ) we achieve to remove it.
We put back the original rewelded part, we manage the copied axle and keep it as spare just in case. I ask to Patrick if we change the oil because of the filings, “lets it down, the filter and the strainer will stop that”.

It’s getting late, come back to the guesthouse Dar Raha, beers, tagine, red wine, daily routine.
We get a call from the insurance, Sorry it was a mistake, here the number of file, that makes us a beautiful leg as we say here.

Sleeping on the roof under stars.

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27-10 Zagora Foum Zguid 240Km Gas washing

2006-12-15T10:22:00.000-08:00

We leave at 8 Am, on the track again, hoping to ride further.
We head off-track direction south in a stony area towards a small pass. Arrived to this pass, we see on the right hand a small path for goats which is going up to an other pass, we take it.

On the top, we go by foot to watch how is the downhill.

It seems to be ok, a small single track funny to ride. In the plain we turn around the Djebel and we arrive to Tagounite for taking the road towards Mhamid.

In Mhamid the wind rise and starts to blow extremely, We are badgered by the guides, they say `' the dunes of Chegaga are higher than Chebbi (lying), you will lose yourself (and the GPS then), the track is very hard and so on”. After a while I’m getting irritated and I tell to a rasta guide to stop to lie.

We purchase some foods, sardines, “laughing cow”, bread, basic meal.
Normally we have enough gas to reach Foum Zguid, but to be safe we decide to refuel with 5 l each. Someone indicates a store at the exit of the town which is selling gas in jerry-can. Good.
We stop in front of the shop and now is time for rock’n roll.
I put the crutch, unscrew the stopper of the tank, and I don’t know why I decide to get out of the bike by the right-hand side. I must specify that I have short boots ( I’m a small guy ) and the bike is high
While wanting to pass my left leg over the motor bike, I hang with the heel the luggage, I lose balance, fall on the ground, on the bottom
In the movement I drag the bike down with me. I see the bike falling on me with the tank fully open, the gasoline runs on me with flood
I get up, and pick up the bike.
I am soaked of gasoline from the feet to the belt
Obviously the gasoline starts to burn me you can imagine what (fortunately that nobody smoked in the corner)
Quickly I have the balls on fire. The legs a little also but it is nothing.
I leave the boots, socks, bike pants, catch a bottle of water in my bag and pours it in the boxer shorts, `oh shit, my bollocks are burning because of the gas, it stings”.
In record time I unpack the luggage (every morning it takes 20 to 30 mn to tie up ). I catch a boxer and my jean, I’m naked in the street, I’m pouring an other bottle of water, I wipe myself with a tee-shirt , I wear my pants, ouf it’s going better.A local guy goes out the shop and give me a roasting because of the striptease in the street ( we are in a muslim country ), I’m very sorry but it was urgent.

Well, this is not really the better way to cross a dunes erg. Since we are traveling light, I have only one jean and a bike pants. So I decide to wash my bike pants. I return in the shop, ask whether they have a basin and detergent. He sends me to seek that in the WC, I would avoid the description of this place. I filled the bucket in apnea and come back in the street to do the washing. Washing, drying, re-washing, Re-drying, even so it's stinking of gas, . The third washing I give up, It will be ok like that.

Washing (30° is written on the label)

Drying

I wear my trousers, it’s a little bit wet, but regarding the heat I have had, it’s not so bad.
The rasta guide is passing while, he is laughing.

We refuel with 5 l gas, as we planed, I buy two bottles of water. Lets go ???

We start on a sandy track, we pass two Toyota, it’s going better than previously. We drive on sandy area, following on a stony reg, again sandy , stony etc…We use the GPS to guide our-self
On an other hand the wind is becoming strong a bit.

In the small dunes I fall, it’s not easy to keep the right direction and find the best pass in the same time. The feeling to drive in the sand is coming back, but the bike is loaded, and with the luggage it’s not so easy.

Far from here we can see a sandstorm, we continue on stones, in front of us the sky is becoming dark, I get stuck in the sand. We stop, the weather seems to become bad. I have a look at the map and at the GPS, there is a solution to avoid the erg, heading north towards a track which goes round the erg. We discuss and decide to going out from here.

In the erg

Quickly we find the track, the sky above the erg is black. This track is a hell, riding here looks like a pneumatic drill session during 100 km.

The storm above chegaga

Before the village of Zaouia Sidi, some guys stop us and require gasoline for the moped, we propose to them to siphon in the tank of Patrick’s bike, during this time behind us we hear the thunder, there is lightning, I do believe we took the good decision.The guys want to invite us for the tea, but regarding behind us we prefer going a head

We arrive on the Iriki lake, this is a flat dry lake, because the sandstorm the visibility is less than 50m, hardly we can see the large cairns which borders the track. And then the stony track begin again
20 or 30 km before Foum Zguid we pass a group composed with 7 Jeep Cherokee, we stop and they offer us to drink a fresh beer, why not, they are very well equipped, fridge etc…

Further we meet two French guys who are on the road to Dakar, they have BMW overloaded, we discuss few minutes.

‘’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus, hein !!! ‘’

Foum Zguid center

We stop in the center of the town, exactly where we had stopped eight years ago with Gégé and Pierre. The shibani ( old man ) which made the skewers (when it is black it is cooked) is deceased, Rachid, his son, is now the owner. We explain him we were here height years ago. He invites us for the evening to have a drink..
There is only one hotel here , Iriki. Touring Hostel.
The shower is almost hot, I wash my stuff ( pants, socks scented with leaded super) We come back at Rachid bar, he serves us whisky, not berber whisky, real whisky, but it’s recommended to add coke and a lot, if you want to swallow it.

Return to the hotel, meal and go to the bed, the day has been exciting
« Hey Patrick, you don’t find that it feels a little the gasoline in the room ?? »
Outside the wind is blowing stronger
Next....

28-10 Foum Zguid Marrakech 350Km Floods

2006-12-14T10:20:00.000-08:00

The wind blew all the night, wake up at 6:00 am, breakfast, we load the bikes and for the third time, "dismounting tire" in the garage, the front wheel of Patrick’s bike is once again flat.
I have to say that he is efficient now, the job is done rapidly. In the garage there is an Honda Transalp which has been fully crumpled in a crash by a german guy on the track few days before. (Without too much injury for him). There are tires "Michelin desert" on this bike, a short moment we thought to change the tires, we didn’t.

Departure, the clouds are well fixed on the mountain, we cross Foum Zguid, at the exit of the village the foundation raft for the passage to ford is covered with a thick layer of mud and the oued runs with floods, it is not good forecasts at all. Stop to the gas station, refueling, verification of the oil level.

We leave, 9 km on the road and we take the track. It curves around a completely dry oued , everything is ok, we are driving cool then suddenly a large hole, catastrophic braking, nevertheless I pass.
I hope Patrick has seen my stylistic device and has been thus warned, I am turned over, and right in the middle of the ditch, a XR on the ground and Patrick sitting close. I turn and go back, he doesn’t worry, it’s ok.
We continue, and arrive in a really splendid valley, with oases, small villages, people very friendly wave us, children everywhere too. Wonderful.

Altitude is gained, we approach the clouds, the stony and wet track is very sliding specially with overblowed tires and overloaded bikes, the front wheel wants to live his own life on several occasions, we drive carefully.

We are close to the top of the pass, in the clouds, this track is superb in spite of the weather. At the top of the pass there is an extraordinary landscape on the plain and the village of Issil with the storm which threatens, unforgettable.

We are now in the valley, this is quite muddy First ford in Issil, there are traces of truck, the villagers indicate to us where to cross, Patrick launches out first, it’s ok. Quickly, the second ford, it’s not very large, no fear. The following is more wide, water is muddy we don’t see the bottom, once again Patrick engages, without problem

We arrive at a small school, I approach, the teacher goes out, I have some pens that I give him for his pupils. It doesn’t speak well French, but enough to say to us that the track is " finished " It’s not a good news, anyway we go and we will see. The following ford is wider as the others with strong current. Can we cross or not ??.

A local guy explains us we have to wait, Patrick decides to go to probe with foot, the guy precedes him, get out his shoes, go up the legs of his trousers and takes Patrick by the hand for the crossing. In fact there is not too much water except at two places and specially at the exit.

I cross first, without problem, Patrick follows. To tanks the guy we give him our picnic and take a picture.

Are there other fords further ?, Inch allah. It was the last. Arrived on the sealed road, we turn on the right hand, straight to the storm, we stop and put on our rain wear, good idea, in the following minutes, we are inside the storm, only 20 km to Tazenakht, but it seems a longtime.

Stop to a restaurant, anyway we have no picnic and it’s raining. Tajine, kefta , mint tea, it’s going better. We meet three French bikers who explain us that they arrive from Ouarzazate by the road and they cross a lot of oueds in spate. One of them is riding a 100 cc and is going to the Benin, brave guy. We have a look to the map and the track I planed for this afternoon begin in an oued, wisely we decide to take the road.

Arrived at the crossroads with the main road 9, we decide to give up Ouarzazate (we won’t see Ait Benhaddou and the track of Telouet. an argumpent to come back) and we go directly to Marrakech.
180 Km through the Tizi n’Tichka, a pass around 2200m high, inside the storm, it will be good. By place the road is covered with mud pulled by the storm, we stop in a gas station, no more electricity this means no pump (ah gasoline in jerry-can in Mhamid!!!). As we were going uphill and downhill, we have rain, wind, hail (to be honest three or four hails not more), mud, gravel, and so on. We saw also a car crashed on a truck, further a car without nose. Riding a bike in those conditions was very impressive, really.

A sealed road which worth a lot of track.

We pass the guys with the Cherokee, but right now we don’t really want a beer.
30 km before Marrakech, we stop for refueling, we call the Toulousain hotel ( where do you want I go ) we book a room and we go.
On this road in the dark, I was much more afraid that in the pass under the storm. There are everything on this main road, people, Mopeds, bicycles, carts, donkeys, goats, nobody has lighting, (our are not very efficient ) the cars are running very fast, it’s dangerous everywhere.

Finally we arrive. Hot shower. We take a beer in a bar, where every body seems to be drunk (no aggressiveness, they are laughing).

An other exciting day..

"Hé Patrick, on est moulu, hein !!!...."

Next.......

Square Jemaa El Fna, here we are

29-10 Marrakech 0Km Tourists at work

2006-12-13T10:20:00.000-08:00

Day off in Marrakech. Today menu : tourism, the medina, tannery, washing, siesta.

and in order to keep your hand in the mechanical business, our usual tire dismantling.

For myself I have to repaste all the repair patches

“ Hey Patrick, Do you think will have enough repair patches ?” .

Also mudguard !!!!

Next....

30-10 Marrakech Agouti 280Km Broken tracks

2006-12-12T10:18:00.000-08:00

We leave at 8 Am, taking the road to Demnate. Today program is the route F4 and G3 in the last Gandini guide. A sealed road until the hydraulic damming of Ait Adel, then the track start soon. This route is very funny, high tracks with wonderful landscapes, a lot of small mountain villages, deep valleys, an excellent track.

We pass small red Bedford trucks, very old and overloaded with people everywhere. For the passengers sited on the roof the view over the precipice must be impressive, they have to trust the driver.

Public transport with panoramic view

Only one tree on the horizon

Arriving to Denmate, refuelling for the bikes and the bikers, chicken with French fries, mint tea and we start again.

“ do you think we have to purchase some thing just in case ?

-we have only 100 km to ride it’s only 2 pm, it will be ok “.

We pass at Iroultane, an area with dinosaur footprint, but we don’t see them because I didn’t note it. ( we should return one day ).After a ford, I lose the track on the right hand, mistake quickly corrected thanks to the GPS.
Once again we ride on a nice mountain track, with landscapes and villages really superb.

We arrive to the built ford of Imi n’Ouaqqa noted on the Gandini guide, surprise, the flooding due to the storms , has broken the ford. The step is around 2m. On the opposite bank a young guy riding a donkey is crossing the river, and thus showing us where to cross over.
What are we going to do ?, how is the track further ?. We have already done 50 km from Demnate and normally it stills the same until Agouti our goal. It’s 4 pm, it’s getting dark at 6 pm, lets go we try. Anyway we could return without many problems.

We decide to use the same way used by the donkey ( it’s normal with an Honda 400 XR ). At first we have to cross a gutter built for watering, down a small slope, riding in the river and get over the opposite bank. Patrick goes without many difficulties, right before the eyes of the villagers, I follow.

Crossing over

We are on the oposite bank

Following on the track, we are looking for rock engravings advisable in the guide, they are not easy to see.
At 5 pm we arrive at a pass named Tizi n’Tighiyst, with 2400m high, where there are a lot of rock engravings, this site is very important, we can see engravings everywhere, it’s impressive. Unfortunately, regarding the clock, we must go, people say us we need one hour to Agouti, around 30 km.

The downing track is back-breaking with large flat stones. We cross over several small fords, sometime like ditches because of last rains. In the village Ighir n’Tissent, we take a wrong direction. The villagers give us the rigth direction. We have to cross an other Oued, there is not many water but we can see that the bed has been mixed a lot. After Abachkou the track is wet with a lot of water puddles, and also several green leafs on the ground, storms and wind have been very strong here.

The track is going down in a valley, I can see the Oued in the bottom, on my road book ( done with Gandini guide datas ) I noted “ small bridge “, I become afraid, how is the bridge after the storm ?
Now I can see the bridge, It seems to be normal, I slow down, there is a hole on the left but the access is not a problem with a bike ( not the same with a car). On the oposite bank a woman is making signs meaning “ you cannot pass”. Once crossing, the track is turning left and there………There is a huge rock filling up almost the right part of the track, on the mountain side, and a big hole on the left on the river side, in the middle a small pass. It’s no good. I stop, get out the bike when Patrick arrives, cross the step and takes the small way between the rock and the hole. He stops soon because he gets stuck in the middle. The handlebar and the saddlebag are knocking on the rock, because of his big bag he is not able to get out the bike, he is fighting to avoid falling in the hole. This situation is becoming uncomfortable for him. I climb over the rock and catch the front wheel and hold it, he manages to get out and holds the rear of the bike. We manage to make pass the bike. We know how to do, so we proceed with my bike, easy man.

It's getting dark. Bad picture due to the dark, but to give an idea.

It’s not good but we have to go, the night is here, but on the GPS I can see that Agouti is not so far, 7- 8 km. We are riding on the right hand bank of the oued. The track is divided in two, one track down on the left and an other up. The downing track seems to be more large, the other is looking like a goat way ( in the night ). I take the left, wrong choice, it’s ending in the river. We turn and go back, on the goat way, sandy in the beginning, some channelling, and after ok, my colleague is going ahead.

Once again two solutions. He goes on the right upping track, wrong choice after a short while the track disappears, in the dark. I go by foot to have a look, I guess the track down to the small hill where we are. We turn and go back, it’s ok. Once or twice I don’t remember a large part of the track has been taking away by the flooding oued, but it remains a small way which doesn’t matter with a bike, except the fact this is the night and our lighting is not efficient. We cross a tributary of the main oued, we have two small steps to pass, now the track is going up and is overhanging the oued and moving away from it. Ouf the situation is becoming less tense. I look at the GPS we are almost arrived, then suddenly in the middle of the track a huge rock with mass of fallen earth. Shit we are damned. It remains a pass 40 cm wide, between the rock and the precipice, it pass sitting on the rock, first gear slowly ouf. The track stills going up and suddenly the sealed road, yeehh.

Very happy to find a sealed road, often we tried to avoid it, not yet.On my road book, I have noted “Flilou Berber house in the entry of the village, good address very clean “ We find it immediately. We stop, but it seems to be closed. I go to the entry door, I guess a glow inside, I come in, there is a Candle. “ is there somebody ??”, yes it is, because of the recent storms the electricity is cut, anyway the guest-house is open. It seems we are alone, the boss guides us to a court-yard to park the bikes. In the same time, 4 trekers arrived from Paris. The bed in a dormitory for 4 is 50dh around 5€. Regarding the shower, only cold water, as they say “wallou”. And more, we are going to eat, candles diner, Milk-soup, omelette, tomatoes, apples, tea. While a moment we thought to sleep on the track behind the oued( I’ve got freeze-dried food and cereals in my saddlebag in case ). A young woman comes with his daughter for the diner, she reads the registry book and asks who is living close to Toulouse. She lived less than 10 km from my house. She is here for a wedding and she has had to stay during all the day on the road waiting the be able to cross the flooded river with a bus. A shibani 84 years old told to her, he never saw so much water during all his life.

An excellent day from the morning to the evening, riding 8 hours, great adventure.

‘’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus hein !!!’’.

Next.....

Gite Flilou

31-10 Agouti Beni Mellal 210Km No bridge

2006-12-11T10:17:00.000-08:00

We don’t leave early this morning. During yesterday stage, Oil has leaked from the spare oil can, there is oil everywhere in the bag, I hate oil, cleaning.We leave at 9:30 AM, the guides in the guesthouse told us the track is ok until Zaouia Ahansal, what’s a good news. We stop for purchasing at the small store, usual picnic, sardines laughing cow and bread.

The track goes through several villages. At Tabant we are looking for a site with dinosaur footprint, we turn a little, I find the way but there is a ford to cross, we want not to get wet the feet this morning, we give up.

super market

At Ifrane we don’t take the main track, we go straight, we ride in a river bed during a while, then we go up on a holed track, and then we arrive on the main track which is like a highway regarding what have had until now.

This track is very easy to ride, and the landscapes are wonderful. As far as Zaouia Ahansal the track stands above 2000m.

Djebel Azourki 3700 m

Tracks at 2400 2500 m

Pass at 2772 m

We cross many pass with more than 2600m high and the highest 2772m.

During the descent we stop the engines, free wheels, admiring the landscapes ( more than 1000m down).

Arrived to Zaouia Ahansal, we stop to visit the village. Local guides ask us if we want to eat, to sleep etc. They say to us that the track to the Cathedral rock is broken.

Well good news. Where ?, 30 km far away from here.

We have enough gas for 150km, if we have to get back, the next village with gas is Azilal around 100 km. Until now each time somebody said us “ you cannot pass” we succeed to pass, anyway we take a chance.

On the track we talk with a guy in a very old Land Rover, he explains us that in the village Tillouguite the bridge has been taken away by the river and the cars cannot cross. We ask for bikes but he doesn’t know. The problem is as far as Tilouguite it takes 60km and not 30, if we have to return we won’t have enough gas. He says we can find gas in the village.
Like often, explanations are not clear, anyway we go. Inch’Allah.

We arrive to the well known Cathedral rock, superb but at this time the memory card of my digital camera decides to give up the trip. I cannot take any picture , but also I’m afraid to lose all the pictures already taken. Everything is going better.

Arriving to Tilouguite, there are 3 or 4 Land rover parked on the edge of the track, in fact we can see the supports of the bridge, but without bridge. We approach and on the right hand we see people crossing the river on an old bridge, with a car it’s not possible to cross but no problem with a bike.

"Hé, Patrick, on est moulu Hein !!!"

Where is the bridge ?

Helmet is mandatory!!!

Old bridge
So happy!!!!

Pic-nic at the bar in Tilouguite.

The road until Beni Mellal, the last bridge for today.

hôtel Tasmmet, 130 Dh bedroom, hot shower.

We look at a bar to have a beer, it's not very easy, finally we find ( without GPS ). A large smoky room, full of people ( men only ) with a brand new flat screen TV, waiting for a football game ( Barcelona ) it's funny. As the bar is crowded, the barman shows us a table where two guys are already installed. We start to discuss with Abdou, very funny guy, we offer him a beer, he explains us a lot of things regarding Morocco, he is Berber and not Arab, it's very different. He gives us an address for a typical cheap restaurant where we can eat for 6€. It's close to the hotel, tajine kefta so good.

At the hotel I spend two hour to recover the pictures from the camera to the PocketPC, Ouf saved.

Next....

1-11 Beni Mellal Meknes 340Km Oumr'bia Monkeys

2006-12-10T10:16:00.000-08:00

Wake up at 6am as usual, we wake up the guard who is sleeping behind the desk. He opens the garage, we load the bikes, breakfast in a bar close to the hotel.

Start at 8 am, we are on the road again.

The road to Khenifra is not interesting, a straight line cruising at 90 km/h with an XR is boring.

In khenifra we take a Berber whisky.

We go towards Oum Er Rbia spring.

We meet coaler who are working on their charcoal kiln, like in the past. For them is todaywe arrive to Oum Er rbia spring, 7 sources and 2 with slated water

Basic tourist

I took a wrong track, with huge stairs and big stones like we used this type of tracks in enduro but without luggage. My friend is waiting on the good track.

Later, once again I'm waiting for Patrick, after a while I see him, he vawes me, once again a puncture, on the rear wheel this time. " you will see Michelin T63 will be fine" he said!!!...
.

Tire dismantling lesson, by an expert

Definitively, we can say Michelin T63 is a wrong choice for Moroccan tracks.

wild monkeys in the cedars forest

We are back on the same track as the second day.

Overloaded trucks. they drive very slowly, without brake, tyres over used. Be carreful, the road are more dangerous than the tracks.

Arriving at Azrou, refueling the bike and sealed road until Meknes.

Next.....

Meknes down town, looking for an hotel in the hearth of the city

2-11 Meknes - sebta 340Km Last stage

2006-12-09T03:26:00.000-08:00

As usual wake up at 6 am, I don't hear anymore the Muesin's call.

We recover the bikes parked in the street but watched all the night ( normally ). no breakfast in the hotel before 10, we stop in a small store where a friendly guy sells pancake with honey, delicious.

We start under the rain, we pass close to Moulay Idriss a typical white town build on a hill, and close to this town, the ruin city of Volubilis. A tourist bus is already there so we decide to continue.

We want to ride once again the track to Mokrisset done the first day.

We take a small road and arrive at Zouakine, under the rain. Stop at a bar for a mint tea . We have a look on the map and we see a track which is going to Zoumi, where is the start of the track done the first day. We ask somebody in the bar and actually it goes to Zoumi, yallah

on the track again. We cross many small villages where not many tourist pass. Finally we arrive at Zoumi where we take a wrong direction. Turn back and there we meet two french guys riding Suzuki 650 DR overloaded. They bought these bikes specially for this trip. When they see our luggage, they thought they took away too many things.their trip is beginning, our is finishing.

Are we going with them ??....

Refueling in Zoumi, we take the track, it very wet and slippery. Actually this is an old road covered with mud compressed by cars, the rain transformed it in an ice rink.

This track will become a sealed road soon, but now under the rain it looks like "holliday on ice", gently on the brakes if not...

Finally we arrive at Chefchaouen where we planned to stay for the night, before leaving Morocco.
Of course a false guide wants explain us the life, we say him kindly that we don't need help, and at the end he insults us with racist words, it was the unique time it happens for us in Morocco.

In a restaurant two german girls are eating, we ask if it's good, they say "Ja", so we decide to eat there too. We exchange informations with them, they have a very basic map so I give them mine, our trip is over, theirs begins.

We find that Chaouen is a very touristic place, Ceuta is just at two hour from here, and we decide to return home.

Refueling in a well watched gas station

Ceuta, the boat leaves at 19h30, Algeciras, on the highway in the dark and under the rain....

Finding the campsite, loading the bikes on the trailer, a quick shower, 22h00 we leave.

All the night on the spanish highways. 13h00 : I call "we are at home in a quarter".

That's it, it was a great trip.

Epilogue.....

Epilogue :

2006-12-08T03:15:00.000-08:00

The trip is finished. For us, it was really a great trip, much more we hoped when we started. I hope you enjoy with this report.
The web has been a fabulous tool for preparing this trip.I found everything on internet, waypoints tracks maps etc....
Morocco is really a beautiful country for riding a bike, there is all you need, tracks, mountains dunes, sand stone mud etc.... It is very safe and people are very friendly and welcoming.
The 400XR is a good bike to do this kind of tripIt was worth the wait, eight years the first trip.I can share wpts tracks etc...
I have also an home-made ( not by me ) map with road track etc... compatible Mapsource, I got it in my GPS and it was very useful.

‘’’ Hé Patrick, on est moulus, hein !!!!!!.............’’